How apt that the latest ad for a brand with an identity crisis features characters swapping seats at random after a series of mysterious blackouts. The new Stella 4 spot stars a surly-looking truck driver (is there any other kind?), his crate of chickens, a white-suited Mr Big and the obligatory 'stunna' trading places on the road as they pass through tunnels of l'urve.

Like an evening on the famous wifebeater of yore, it's sort of funny but mostly confusing. For all that patented triple-filtering, the hero's 'smooth outcome' is not getting the girl but ending up with a pint at a divey bistro and a suit kitsch enough to make Liberace rotate for all eternity in his sequinned, spangly grave.

For that genuine French vibe, the truck driver should have been on strike, his clucking cargo ablaze and the glamour-puss posing nude before marrying a president. Those quibbles aside, c'est magnifique.

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