There’s nary a cathedral in sight in the godless urban hell-scape evoked in Cathedral City’s new ad. It’s all rainy underpasses, suffocating suburbs and desolate tower blocks. Schoolchildren tear through the rain as if pursued by some unseen horror. A boy on a bike powers madly onward like Chris Hoy’s homunculus.

‘Come Home’ is the theme but this is hardly jumpers-for-goalposts cheesiness. Ed Prosek’s nasal cover of Homeward Bound only adds to the chilly feel.

Still, things warm up when the grilled cheese comes out. It’s scientifically impossible to make bubbling cheese look anything but amazing. And this is infinitely better than the tiny cowboy in the Pilgrims Choice ad.