Marks & Spencer has form when it comes to the ‘appetising’ look. Those ‘not just any food’ ads set the bar high.

So its ads for Christmas party food ought to be out of the top drawer. And so it proves: Glossy presentation, smooth voiceover, plinky piano version of a Christmas classic? Check, check and check.

The only drawback to be found, in fact, is in the Iceland-esque products themselves. Its weird ‘crouton-covered king prawn balls’, for example, look like The Thing from Fantastic Four. And while the profiteroles might be full of bang-on-trend salted caramel cream, they’re topped with ‘gold stars’, as if they’ve been decorated by a toddler with glue and sequins.

Still, if anyone can sell them, M&S can.