Marks & Spencer’s famous ‘this is not just food’ ads may have been axed four years ago, but their influence remains strong. M&S’s new summer ad echoes their super-premium feel, complete with ‘chillout’ music and slo-mo shots.

The voiceover is mildly less breathy than Dervla Kirwan’s effort, but there’s no mistaking the quasi-sexy foodie vibe. At the world’s most middle-class barbecue, we’re presented with such treats as “low and slow smoked pork shoulder with apple barbecue sauce” and (bordering on self-parody) “chilli cheese poshdogs in toasted brioche buns”.

The ‘this is not just’ slogan is unspoken, but the inference is clear - and the food looks stunning. Your move, Waitrose.