Waitrose's line (four stars) had much more of a zing - the lemon juice was really in evidence and made the inevitable garlic aftertaste less pronounced. Asda's effort (three stars) also had a zesty kick, but lost a mark for a particularly dense texture that bordered on the stubborn.
The Tesco product (three stars) was workmanlike rather than spectacular. It had a balanced flavour but a slightly gloopy consistency. At 75p, Morrisons' offering (two stars) was the cheapest. The rather nuttier taste hinted at the tahini within, but it was a tad lifeless compared with some rivals.