Like its presenter’s unforgettable stint on Strictly Come Dancing, The Truth About Sugar (BBC1, 9pm, 19 March) made for strangely gripping viewing, even if it lacked expert content.
Here was another predictable attack on companies peddling the “new tobacco” with Fiona Phillips setting out her less-than-scientific summary of why sugar is demon-in-chief.
“I always thought saturated fat was the enemy, then there was salt,” she pondered. “But something innocent-looking in our cupboards is public enemy number one.”
This show joined others that have decided sugar deserves special treatment, despite years of the government telling us overall calorie intake and a balanced diet counts.
Poor Barbara Gallani - FDF director of regulation, science and health - got caught up in the mix with a brief cameo apparently designed to make her look as evil as possible, before Phillips stalked around outside FDF HQ, eyebrows arched in disapproval.
In fairness, the show did get interesting with the introduction of four sweet-toothed volunteers who were “detoxed” to show how ditching the white stuff could save them from a sugary grave.
All but one (Rick) shed almost a stone, which is impressive, though perhaps no more than they could have shifted by cutting out a different nutrient group.
Sadly, Rick completely let the side down by failing to shed any weight whatsoever, simply swapping his sweet addiction for lager instead. So there you have it. Everything in moderation, after all.