Members of The Grocer team are always on the lookout for retailers' wine tasting opportunities, purely in the course of duty you understand. However, when one of the team popped into her local Marks & Spencer last Saturday, she was confronted by a young woman, behind a row of sample bottles, in plastic gloves stretching up to her elbow and a big hair net. "I know, I know," she cried. "I look a bit like Ena Sharples, but frankly I don't know how far to cover up when serving wine to meet the food hygiene regulations. We don't want hair falling into the necks of wine bottles, do we?" Quite right too. Perhaps pubs should do the same in the interests of hygiene and branch out into plastic gloves and hats, although there is the danger that they might attract quite the wrong sort of customer. {{COUNTERPOINT }}