The organic sector has struggled to find a clear point of difference in recent years. But suppliers might be able to take a few handy pointers from China, where the booming sector has ­reportedly quadrupled in the past five years.

A major factor in the trend is widespread public paranoia over the use by dodgy manufacturers of what's variously called 'drainage oil' or, even more alarmingly, 'sewage oil'.

According to some estimates, 10% of the cooking oil in the food chain comes from unscrupulous dealers who skim jettisoned cooking oil from the drains in restaurants, then rebottle the stuff and sell it on, good as new. Blogof is all in favour of recycling, but that's surely taking it a bit too far.

Even with that sort of ­following wind behind it, however, it seems organic still has something of an image problem.

"Chinese people like to judge their food by how it looks, but organic food does not look so good," ­organic farmer Wang Tao told the Daily Telegraph.

"It is lumpy and has holes in it."

That was never a problem for Swiss cheese. Still, might the Soil Association be led to consider a new slogan, along the lines of 'At least it's not sewage'?