What do the UK's major supermarkets and drug dealers have in common?

Quite a bit, according to local food champion and popular TV chef Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall, who launched a scathing attack on the big four this week.

In a speech at a conference organised by FoE, Action Aid and War on Want, Fearnley-Whittingstall likened supermarkets' attempts at selling local food to "crack dealers selling fudge because it was good for PR". "The way that the supermarkets dress up parts of their stores to resemble local food halls is not a commitment to local food; it's cynical window dressing," he said. "Local producers are bullied and even busted by the aggressive tactics of the supermarkets."

But an Asda spokesman said: "Any decent retailer sells things customers want, so it is not PR, it's real and meaningful."

Fearnley-Whittingstall is to challenge his local Tesco in Axminster later this year, when he opens his own store selling local foods.