From Jacko to JFK, a true pro always leaves the crowd wanting more. If only the newish commercial for the suitably moreish Boursin ran for a few extra seconds.

There's a welcome return for the classic 'du pain, du vin, du Boursin' strapline that so infuriated cheese-heads throughout the 1990s, although the 'Do you?' payoff has been amputated.

Beginning with a sun-drenched picnic shot in such soft focus the lens must have been smeared in more Vaseline than a Jacqui Smith home movie, there's then a marginal tonal shift that leads to its achingly Gallic leads being flayed (offscreen) in a grisly farming accident as a combine harvester looms behind them.

It's utterly incongruous - but still marks the most satisfying French connection since Renault beheaded Nicole and Papa in a gruesome hit and run accident.

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