Asda and Morrisons (both two stars from five) provided functional efforts – too thin, too dark – although the flavour was fine, if a touch fuller for Morrisons. But both failed the dunkability test, pulping almost immediately.

Annoyingly, neither pack had an easy tear-tab.

At 31p, Tesco’s (three stars) golden, chunkier biscuit matched rather than bettered those for flavour but fared noticeably better in the dunk.

There was little to choose between Sainsbury's and Waitrose (both four stars). Both looked and tasted great, although the much more expensive Waitrose product, which cost 58p, held up better in a cuppa.

For value, the satisfyingly crunchy Sainsbury's at 31p is the clear winner.