Come back Perky, all is forgiven! Giles Coren and Sue Perkins may have been intensely irritating prancing around in period costume while living on diets from eras past, but at least the duo were vaguely dynamic.
I think I slipped into a coma momentarily watching Coren’s latest offering, Our Food (8pm, BBC2, 11 April). I like Coren’s writing, but he has a face for radio and a voice for the written word – TV’s not his forté and a supporting cast of do-gooding dullards (James Wong, Alys Fowler, Lucy Worsley and Alex Langlands) doesn’t help.
In the second part of their tour of Britain to see how our landscape, history and climate have shaped what we eat, the team headed to North Wales, where Coren followed in the footsteps of the Welsh drovers, Wong learnt more about leeks, Langlands met some hill sheep, Fowler discovered that a sea trout and brown trout were one and the same and Worsley found out about “sa won”.
It should have been fascinating. Instead it was ponderous and patronising, Coren trying to show interest in the humble folk he met, but actually displaying all the empathy of a barracuda appraising its next meal.
Talking of meals, there was surprisingly little about our food in Our Food. Neither was there much insight that was, well, insightful (and no, Giles, musing slightly nonsensically that a cow is “just an animal, it’s just a machine to turn the grass into something that we can eat”, doesn’t count).
All the talk of droving, though, was perhaps apt – the whole programme was droving me completely mad by the end.