Gousto box

I’m not sure James Martin is convinced his latest cookery show The Box (BBC1, 4pm, 22 June) is a winner. Gone is the jovial and relaxed presenter of Saturday Kitchen, replaced by a stilted and awkward man trying to cajole three contestants into cooking up a storm using a box of mystery ingredients.

This was episode 22, so it can’t be blamed on first episode nerves. But it wasn’t just Martin that was off the boil; a lack of tension pervaded the entire show. Even a guest appearance by the infamous Monica Galetti couldn’t crank it up. She quickly announced she wasn’t going to be scary, and she couldn’t help giggling at everything going on.

The three bewildered contestants didn’t even seem to like food that much. Irene mistook a duck’s thigh for its breast while it was still attached to the bird, an array of wild leaves was described as “that green stuff” by Peter and a coconut flummoxed Gary, who stared at it like he’d never seen one before.

Finally some food arrived. Peter had created duck breast with chocolate sauce. “Dig in,” Martin ordered Galetti. “Really?” she replied, laughing, before realising he meant it. “The sauce is really strong, really thick,” she said, trying to swallow. “Look, it’s even set over there in the corner…”

If anyone out there hasn’t yet tired of the invention test in MasterChef and would like to see a cheaper, dumber, extended version, with less interesting ingredients, cooked by less talented people, this is the show for you. But watch it while you can. It may not be back for a second series.