Polenta alla spianatora! Sounds fancy, but it means ‘polenta served flat’ and refers to the method of pouring a vat of boiled cornmeal directly on to a table.
The tradition has been reprised by the Fortina restaurant in Brooklyn, NY. The gunk is slathered on the (wooden) table, then topped with meatballs, veg, bone marrow and truffle paste. Then it’s eat as quick as you can, for you must share with nine people - and you have paid $55.