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Wine expert Tim Hanni has broken the industry omertà about pairing. Matching wine with food, he told the ‘Sauvignon Blanc Celebration’ in Marlborough, New Zealand last week, is “pseudoscience”. Gasp!

Hanni claimed a campaign was necessary to stop the practice. He argues that consumers might desert the category if they’re worried about breaking arbitrary rules.

Bogof suggests a trip to Melbourne restaurant Darling & Co, which has just installed a prosecco fountain. A few refills in, you realise ‘lots of booze’ goes with ‘any food’.