The Great British Seafood Revival (Merlin Unwin Books, £25) arrives as Britain’s relationship with its own waters is under sharp scrutiny, given around 80% of our fish is exported. But CJ Jackson’s book is a much-needed guide to a coastline’s worth of underused ingredients.
The book’s most persuasive tool is its varied yet achievable recipes. Megrim and witch are featured in innovative dishes alongside more familiar turbot and sole, challenging the reasons for habitual British seafood choices.
The recipes also span global influences and a range of techniques, slipping easily from budget-friendly tinned fish ideas to inventive reimaginings such as popcorn cockles and ray kyivs.
Alongside the recipes, Steve Lee’s photography provides readers insight of all aspects of British seafood, from catch to processing and service.
The book risks overreaching itself possibly, given the country’s dearth of fishmongers. In 2011, when Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall launched The Big Fish Fight to move shoppers from cod toward coley, he ran up against structural limitations, since supermarkets simply don’t stock enough of these alternatives.
A more explicit acknowledgement of this reality, or guidance on navigating supermarket sourcing, might have grounded the book’s ambition and strengthened its impact.
The Great British Seafood Revival is, however, a valuable contribution to the push for Britain to reconnect with its own coastal abundance, advancing conversations about sustainability, food security and offering modern, inventive approaches to cooking with British seafood.
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