Fairtrade wine still has a long way to go before it will be as relevant to consumers as Fairtrade products in other categories, Tesco wine buyer Graham Nash said this week.

Although sales of Fairtrade wine have been rising, up 52% last year to £19m [TNS], Nash believes quality has held it back. "Historically, it's not as relevant in consumers' eyes due to the underwhelming quality, in many cases, of the wines produced."

Speaking at the judging of the 2009 Fairtrade Wine Awards, Nash said competitive tastings for Fairtrade wine should be applauded for the development of the category. "Irrespective of being Fairtrade, wines still have to represent value for money qualitatively and competitions encourage producers to raise the bar."

However, Vicky Wood, wine buyer at The Co-operative Group, said the supermarket's own-label wine range was going from strength to strength. "Consumers are still choosing to buy Fairtrade despite the recession, with wine sales up 31%," she said. "While shoppers are price-aware, they are not compromising on ethical purchases as they now understand the long-term benefits of Fairtrade."

Sainsbury's also said its wine offer was up in value year-on-year. Buyer Michelle Smith, who was also a judge at the awards, added that the supermarket would be launching another Fairtrade wine later this year in response to consumer demand.

The Fairtrade Wine Committee is hoping to boost awareness of the improving quality with a consumer and trade tasting on 19 November at Vinopolis in London.