If you are what Clarissa Dickson Wright describes as a “rabbit virgin”, then don’t be nervous. Thanks to The Great British Food Revival (BBC 2, Wednesday, 8pm) she will guide you gently through your first time. The theme of the show was Raspberries and Rabbit, although clearly the latter needs more of a helping hand. So after Greg Wallace had raved about raspberries, the redoubtable Clarissa arrived, a rabbit dangling from her fist.
No doubt there are plenty of first-timers out there who need to be shown the ropes rabbit-wise. Whether they want to or not is questionable. As Dickson Wright acknowledged, nowadays, rabbits are popular as cute pets, not dinner. But, undeterred, she ploughed on, offering typically blunt advice to anyone slightly squeamish at the prospect of jointing a bunny: “Don’t be so ridiculous. If you are going to eat it, you ought to be able to cut it up!”
Then, accompanied by cracking and squelching, she butchered the bunny. But those unedifying noises were soon replaced by two of the best, gentle sizzling, and the clank of a Le Creuset. The resulting casserole looked sensational, although there was a criminal lack of bacon in the pot.
Will Dickson Wright’s efforts lead to a rabbit revival? Well, she made a good case. Our rabbit population is booming, at its highest since 1950, so perhaps we should be using more of this cheap, organic, lean and sustainable meat. And, if you are brave enough to give it a go, your under-pressure high-street butcher will probably jump at the chance to deflower you.