This column has previously noted (almost every week, actually) that advertisers seem to think 'zany' equals 'lucrative'. Usually the ghastly pantomime grates like children's knees on playground asphalt, but Vimto's trip to the fairground somehow pulls it off.

Whether it's the sleazy Russian accent put on by the CGI raspberry attempting to charm the lay-deez, or casting a bloke that looks like he lost a fight to Rhys Ifans' uglier brother as the ride-operating gypsy dude, this treads the line between 'offbeat' and 'so irritating you want to burn down the factory of the company responsible' as delicately as a bulimic ballerina.

Short of hiring Michael Barrymore to weep into a Vimto bottle about his traumatic childhood and why he doesn't like swimming pools any more, it's hard to think how an ad for "seriously mixed-up fruit" could have been done any better. Verdict: win.