Is it my imagination or is Ben & Jerry's becoming an increasingly one-dimensional ice cream proposition these days, with its Fairtrade fixation?

Traditionally, the slightly eccentric opposition to Häagen-Dazs's 'We still live in the 70's with our ponderous packaging and wearisome romantic ads' could be relied on for a bit of fun along the way.

Perhaps it has spent too long on the shelf next to its General Mills mate or is struggling with its sector-leading stewardship.

But unlike brands such as Innocent, which has stayed true to first principles despite an increasingly influential Coke stakeholding, Ben & Jerry's appear to have lost its light-hearted aura.

As it happens, I am a big Fairtrade fan, but let us not lose sight of just how many sea and air miles are employed in the chase for such cherished ingredients. Let us also remember that neither of these ice cream giants are produced in the UK and in these troubled times wouldn't it be lovely to embrace a fun, indulgent, locally produced brand that focused on bold thought-provoking flavours as opposed to taking itself quite so seriously.

Ice cream, after all, should always be about fun!

Ian Hills, Purple Pilchard (marketing agency) and formerly of Ben & Jerry's

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