However, a deeper dive into the sales figures – and the Waitrose press office’s archive – paints a far more positive picture for the moderation movement. “Our low & no category is experiencing a significant surge this summer, with sales up 32%,” said Sarah Holland, Waitrose low & no buyer, in August.

“The ‘sober-curious movement’ is growing, showing a trend towards wellbeing-focused drinking that doesn’t compromise on flavour or social connection. This shift is undoubtedly driven by the increasing availability of premium non-alcoholic beverages that offer the same complexity and enjoyment as their alcoholic counterparts,” Holland added.