Talking exclusively to The Grocer in one of her first major interviews since taking the helm at the new superministry last June, she has also praised the major multiples for their "competitive, professional approach". She went on: "The food business is one of the areas of my responsibility where people are doing what I hope everyone will ultimately be doing. It's also where we do all those things somewhat better than we do in some other parts of our economy." She said that she was looking forward to working with the trade to develop an even stronger "high quality, high standard industry" where primary producers can also reap the benefits of adding value. Her comments, delivered with a passion far removed from the coldly calculated, sadly familiar soundbite style of New Labour's spin doctors, will come as a relief to many in the chain. The arrival of a high profile Labour personality to head the Department for Environment, Food & Rural Affairs was an encouraging signal to the sector that Tony Blair was putting the massive challenges of food and farming high on the new government's agenda. However although she has had foot and mouth disease issues to wrestle with during her first six months heading DEFRA, there has been a widespread belief in grocery that Beckett has been a disappointingly aloof figure since taking over from the ubiquitous Nick Brown. According to perceptions along the chain she has concentrated too much on wider global environmental issues rather than mainstream UK food and farming, leaving food issues to her ministerial team. But, in response to our questions, Mrs Beckett has reacted publicly to the criticism for the first time. Aloof? Too far removed from day to day events in food? Her response came as a frank admission: "I expect everyone who looks to my department will almost certainly echo the view that they only know Margaret Beckett from afar." Keeping a wary eye on a tv monitor in the corner of her office, which was promising an imminent Commons vote, the secretary of state went on: "This is a large department, with a large remit. We have to draw together the strands of policy across a wide area. "And this means that perhaps I am not as familiar a figure as the minister of agriculture in a former MAFF who had just one part of this portfolio. "But if you consider that we have something like 3.500 stakeholder organisations for which we are responsible, that's inevitable." And in an obvious reference to the challenges that came with the poisoned chalice of foot and mouth, she went on: "There has been a huge amount happening since I came here, not least in terms of agriculture and sustainable development issues internationally. "It has been a particularly heavy period and it will continue to be so right through until the Johannesburg Earth Summit next September. "The pressures on time have been great. But one of the things that we are trying to do, as we take stock after our first six months, is look at forward planning. "We want to create more space to do some of the domestic things and get more involved with the department's stakeholders. "But that's a huge undertaking." However, she praised food and farming minister Lord Whitty for his efforts within the food chain during DEFRA's first half year. "He's a great guy. But then I'm very fortunate to have very good ministers in my team," she adds with a meaningful smile. Looking ahead, the secretary of state's words were reminiscent of those of her MAFF predecessor, Nick Brown when she emphasised that "it's all about partnerships" between government and the food and farming industry. And she adds: "Leaving aside the fact that people don't always take messages easily from politicians, getting the message across has to be something that we try to do together." So what are her perceptions of the multiple sector, in the wake of the criticism the multiples often receive in the media and even from certain politicians? Another direct answer: "It's highly efficient and competitive, and in the forefront of a lot of the UK's development. "However, I am conscious that there are supply chain issues and that's something we all need to continue to work on. But, in general terms, the sector has a lot of strengths." Having said that, the secretary of state agrees with the notion that government and the food and farming industry could do more to tell the world of its strengths. "But then we are never very good at telling the world we do anything well in this country," she adds with a smile. A familiar point. But how does she respond to critics who say that the new DEFRA is too focused towards environmental and protectionist issues, and is not as close to the nitty gritty of the food business as it should be? For example, should the government, as BRC chairman Sir David Sieff suggested recently, appoint a minister for retailing, given that sector's importance to the overall economy? A sharp, understanding nod of the head, and the answer is direct. "If you think back, there have been a whole range of areas where people have believed there should be specific ministers. "But there are simply not enough ministers for there to be a specific one for everything. "Indeed, to a certain extent there is already a minister who deals with retailing that's Douglas Alexander in the DTI. "I accept that it's an area where there will always be concern. "But unless we double the size of the ministerial teams it is not going to be possible. "The question is, however, do people think that when they are not actually with the food industry, that our ministers are pursuing the right policy areas and question?" Turning to genetic modification, and recent trends which suggest the issue is finally being moved into a more rational debate than has previously been seen in the UK, Beckett also has a considered view: "Genetic modification is a tool. "But it's what you do with it that matters." "It is absolutely important that the evidence drives us. We need to look very carefully at that evidence so we can fully assess the situation. "Scientific trials are taking place, and that has to be the right way to look at the issue. I believe we must consider it on the basis of the science." So did it surprise her when the multiples said no to genetic modification? "It is inevitable that the retailers will react to consumer views. "But the debate is gradually opening up as people realise more and more that genetic modification is not a simple issue. "I find it interesting that once you start to focus on the uses of some of these techniques for medical purposes then people have quite a different approach to it. "We need to get people more familiar with the issues. It has to be a matter of public debate and discussion in the way we haven't quite seen in the past." But turning to food chain unity, a recurring theme during Nick Brown's term at MAFF, the secretary of state makes it clear that she will continue the crusade. Having said that, she stresses that she wants to see farmers becoming "more directly engaged with the signals that are coming from the market", particularly with regard to what consumers seek from the food business. "They should also become more engaged in ensuring that more of the added value factor can accrue to farmers themselves." So what then of the campaigners who are said to be bending the prime minister's ear with the view that there's no need for a strong domestic food and farming production base? "I am slightly surprised to hear of this. It depends upon what people mean. Of course we want a strong, valuable and profitable food and farming industry. "If people are talking about us becoming self sufficient, I believe that is a different issue, especially as the variety of food expected by consumers is now greater than we can always source in the UK. But I would be surprised if anyone truly believed that we ought not have a strong, high quality, high standard food industry." But Beckett, who gave a blunt warning to European farmers in Belfast last September that radical policy changes were needed to secure the industry's future, says she is expecting a lot from the Commission on the Future of Farming and Food that is due to report to Tony Blair at the end of the month. "I almost feel quite sorry for the Commission. But I console myself with the thought that even though we are placing a great weight of expectation on them, a lot of the issues that they will be discussing and fleshing out have been around for a long time. "What we are asking them to do is not to start with a blank sheet of paper, but try to bring together a lot of the ideas people have been tossing around, and give them coherence." Like many other political figures she expects the hot topic of local sourcing will be one of the "important issues" the Commission considers. So what, then, of the recent pleas from Britain's five regional food groups for more money to enable them to indulge in more viable, long-term planning? "I am certainly sympathetic to the cause of local sourcing and production. Whether I can find money for it is quite another matter." Does that mean a DEFRA battle with the Treasury? "It's always a battle with the Treasury. "The poor Treasury gets blamed for everything. After all, there are a lot of demands upon the government's funding. Equally, I am very sympathetic with the cause that the groups are trying to pursue." But what of Margaret Beckett, the food shopper? Where does she buy her groceries? The reply is swift and of the kind one would expect from an experienced and media-wise cabinet member: "In my Derby South constituency," she says with a smile. "It would be invidious to say where we mostly shop. But we don't have time to shop around, so we use one store most of the time. "Having said that, I look for fresh food, because in the job that I do the only time that I am absolutely certain that I am eating fresh food is if I have cooked it myself." But then it's back to DEFRA minister mode as she adds: "I'm not sure if I'm allowed to say it, but I look for British food. Having said that, I look to get around the store and out of the door as fast as I possibly can, because I'm always in a hurry." But given recent controversies, does she find the number of food quality symbols confusing? "No. I see the National Farmers' Union's little red tractor. I know what it stands for and I find that reassuring." Having said that, the secretary of state cum food shopper has no doubts that many UK consumers still put price at the top of their grocery shopping agendas. She adds: "That's one reason why we must do our best to ensure that we are giving good value for money and offering the keenest prices that we can." {{NEWS }}