It says a lot for M&S’s ‘This is not just’ campaign that it’s still a quotable reference point some 15 years after its launch.

A woman gets set to take a bite of a tasty looking sandwich, made with the ham-style slices from Quorn’s new Deli range. A deep-voiced narration and smooth soundtrack uses M&S’s recipe – before our luncher notices the voiceover is coming from her left. More specifically, from a puppet pig, who starts urging her not to consider the alternative to Quorn ham. A cow and a chicken pop up to join in, and the trio’s demands that she eat her sandwich start to carry a mild, amusing hint of threat.

It’s funny stuff – which enables the brand to quietly underline it’s an alternative to eating cute animals. The product looks appreciably better than standard Quorn ham, too.