Oatmeal, water and salt. Three simple ingredients which – when combined in the right proportions, and cooked perfectly – unite the people of Carrbridge, and many visitors, for the annual World Porridge Making Championship.
The Highland village has hosted the event since 1994. A new film, The Golden Spurtle (in cinemas 12 September), introduces us to its organiser, Charlie Miller, ‘chieftain of the golden spurtle’ (it’s a wooden porridge stirrer – spoons are for amateurs). Poetic and good-humoured, Charlie came up with the event to promote the village, and churns out spurtles on his lathe to help fund it.
At first, the film leans into the idea’s quirkiness, framing its cast to accentuate their eccentricity (Wes Anderson has a lot to answer for) and playing up the folksy angle. It’s important to stir your porridge clockwise, we learn, “otherwise you let the devil in”.
But just as interesting is the effort the event requires. A large percentage of the village is involved, and as it has grown in stature, the presence of brands, a PR delegate and international media coverage show it has become a commercial concern that requires serious nous and energy.
It’s still fun, though. Among the contestants, who come from as far as Australia and Zimbabwe, returning local entrant Ian Bishop is said to be a “madman”. Meanwhile, Charlie notes serial finalist Nick Barnard (co-founder of Rude Health) only conforms to the rules “in his manner”.
But in the event, the contest is as cosy as, well, a hot bowl of porridge. It’s notable that the applause for the winner isn’t quite as loud as when the retiring Charlie is given his send-off.
A heartwarming look at what a community can achieve by working together.
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