The emergence of several new brands in the fresh produce category is intriguing. I've always found the fresh produce fixture in supermarkets enormously frustrating, with sky-high prices often charged for rock-solid pears and avocados (that never, ever ripen), tasteless carrots and insipid strawberries.

At the same time, the category has been effectively a brand-free zone, with shoppers left to read the small print for sometimes vital information on varietals. But times they are a-changin, in the fresh produce aisle, and the arrival of these brands is making a difference.

Some suppliers are sceptical. Margins are low; quality is hard to control across the year; supply can vary, as can in-store and indeed at-home conditions. And this stuff goes rotten PDQ.

But, talking of which, if Johnny Rotten can boost the sales of a butter, and sales of Cathedral City Cheddar cheese can top £190m, why on earth can't a Hollywood celebrity transform the little red Rooster? I tell you, there's rock 'n' roll in them spuds.

And there are a number of reasons why branding can work here. The first is tiering: with recession, some A-grade produce is being sold in 'basic' ranges; and Fairtrade also comes increasingly as standard. The supermarkets need to bring back tiering to the aisle, and with organic currently a dirty word, brands especially ones with a defined proposition, such as pesticide-free can fill the gap.

A second is money. With the Fresh Produce Consortium's Eat in Colour campaign a total washout, brands can bring glamour, raise awareness and inform customers if the supplier is committed to marketing, that is.

And the third is quality. Supermarkets tend to look for year-round supply. Brands don't have to do that. Or they can specialise in so-called 'perfectly ripe' products. With consistency of taste and quality brands are born.

More Editor's Comment