Welcome to bustling New York City. In a diner, we’re face-to-face with George, who is evangelising about New York. And bagels. And New York bagels.

“We don’t settle for second best,” he advises the camera, as a waitress slaps down a salmon-stuffed example. “If you make it any other way you shouldn’t even be allowed to call it a bagel,” he reckons. (We never learn the unique process that makes it so special, but one senses that would be immaterial to George.)

His home-town enthusiasm is endearing and convincing – while the ‘real’ vibe of the diner (tatty décor, ubiquitous coffee pot, blunt service), underlines the brand’s authenticity, as well as being strangely exotic and appealing to us Brits.

There’s a cute pay-off, too – in which we learn the real recipient of George’s rant.