Ethical uniforms hit the headlines in 2009, when a state school in Hampshire insisted that all students wear a compulsory 'eco-friendly' uniform.

Costing £100, it was made from recycled bottles, and available only from the school and one local shop. Parents were unimpressed, and the school faced accusations of creating a 'back-door selection' situation. 

According to research by Mintel, fewer than one in 10 parents prefer ethical brands, but this does not mean that retailers can ignore the issue.

"Despite these findings, many retailers have felt under pressure to show that they do address this issue," says Mintel's senior fashion analyst, Tamara Sender. Supermarket school uniforms are a particularly easy target they are very cheap, and often made in the developing world.

With some shoppers questioning the ethics behind the products, retailers are keen to demonstrate their ethical credentials, and are experimenting with their offering. Two years ago M&S introduced a £20 uniform using polyester made from recycled plastic bottles, but has since discontinued it. Last year saw Tesco stepping up its Fairtrade offering.

"We are proud to be the only major retailer to offer a complete Fairtrade cotton uniform," says Tesco UK director of clothing, Richard Jones.

But this is unlikely to appease the charities campaigning for better treatment of workers. ActionAid is just one group to have expressed concerns about the annual uniform price wars. According to the organisation, workers making school uniforms (often in Bangladesh and Sri Lanka) are not receiving a living wage.

"Every year the price wars in this market mean that lower prices are forced on to suppliers," says policy adviser Emily Armistead. "Clearly some companies are more progressive than others. M&S, for example, is making efforts to improve wages in its supply chain."

ActionAid has an ongoing public campaign against garment buying companies, and has singled out Asda, in a bid to convince the retailer to pay its suppliers a living wage. Rising commodity prices are a big concern, Armistead adds. The charity is concerned that the additional pressure on retailers and suppliers will lead to cuts in salaries.

Focus On Back To School

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