Fermented foods are all the rage in food and drink right now. So much so that this September London will host a food festival dedicated to the art of pickling, brining and fermenting.
Taking place in Hackney (where else?) this September, The Big Brine promises pickle fans they will be able to discover “boundary-pushing makers, unexpected pairings and the playful, modern side of food culture – one delicious bite at a time”.
Headline sponsor of the two-day event is Vadasz, the Compleat Food Group-backed fermented food phenomenon. Vadasz was an early adopter of kimchi but now makes an array of pickled goods, ranging from its award-winning Smacked Cucumbers to its odd but innovative Kimchi Shot. Thanks to a growing awareness of the importance of gut health, its retail sales have shot up from around £6m in 2022 to nearly £17m [NIQ].
“It’s gone mainstream now,” founder Nick Vadasz said of the fermented food trend in an interview with The Grocer last year. “I know when I’m on This Morning with Cat Deeley or whatever that it’s reaching the masses.”
The pickle NPD boom
The boom isn’t just limited to fermented foods, however. From crisps to condiments and even pickle-flavoured drinks, suppliers and retailers are lining up to unleash unusual creations inspired by one of the most talked-about flavour trends of recent years.
“Pickles are dominating the cultural conversation,” says Florence Cherruault, founder of Suffolk-based supplier The Pickle House. “With savoury cocktails surging in popularity and elite athletes turning to pickle juice for performance recovery, consumer demand has never been stronger.”
Next month, The Pickle House will become the first pickle juice stocked by a major supermarket when its flagship product hits nearly 200 Waitrose stores. The drink is infused with sliced cucumbers and a blend of spices for six months, and offers “a smooth, strong flavour”, according to the brand.
Cherruault was inspired to start The Pickle House after sampling “picklebacks” – a shot of whiskey followed by a pickle juice chaser – during a trip to New York. And while it’s hard to imagine picklebacks becoming a core part part of UK pub and bar culture, demand for pickle juice is clearly on the up, with everyone from pop icon Dua Lipa to professional footballer Kieran Trippier extoling its virtues.
The ‘dirty’ wellness trend
Pickle juice’s versatility is a major factor in its growing appeal, according to Cherruault. The briny, tangy liquid can be used in everything from ‘dirty’ cocktails to smoothies, helping it to bridge “the gap between the premium drinks occasion and wellness shoppers”, she says.
@much Dua Lipa shares new drink recipe combining Diet Coke, pickle juice and jalapeño sauce 👀 [via dualipaofficial/TT]
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Athletes, too, are turning to pickle juice for its high levels of sodium and potassium, two key electrolytes lost through sweat. The England men’s football team players used the drink during their run to the Euro 2024 final in Germany, while tennis players Carlos Alcaraz and Jannik Sinner both sipped on pickle juice during an epic five-and-a-half-hour French Open final last year. And earlier this month, German referee Felix Zwayer was given pickle juice after cramping up whilst officiating the Fifa Men’s World Cup tie between the USA and Australia.
The acidic taste of pickle juice sends a signal to cramping muscles, helping them to stop seizing up, according to sports nutritionists. A 2022 study in the National Library of Medicine found that sips of pickle brine consumed at cramp onset reduced severity “without adverse events”.
Despite (or perhaps because of) its scientifically-proven health benefits, social media remains the main driver of pickle fever, prompting mainstream brands to jump on the trend. The hashtag ‘#pickles’ had more than 455,000 posts on TikTok and videos racking up “billions of views combined”, said KFC as it rolled out a limited-edition ‘Pickle Mania’ menu in April.
It’s hard to imagine the fast food outlet was suddenly inundated with professional sportspeople and health-hackers lining up to try its Crispy Pickle Chips and Pickle Ranch Sauce. And although there is still time for Dua Lipa to be announced as the headliner at The Big Brine later this year, I wouldn’t bet on Kieran Tripper lining up to get his gherkin fix.
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